names sometimes say it all.
in tony’s case— anthony meaning “priceless one” in latin and bourdain referring to a staff taken along on journeys, a name “no doubt given or assumed in memory of some pilgrimage.”
inimitable, the likes of which we’ll never see again, and always on the road or on the run. that’s our man.
love him though i do, bourdain was wary of my adopted home. los angeles made him uneasy, and it wasn’t hard for him to see the darkness lurking among the city of stars.
our food traditions also unnerved him— the constant reference to and usage of and reverence for avocados was the subject of a troubled monologue in an episode of a cook’s tour.
during that same visit, though, a friend of his hosted him as a guest chef at campanile— in what is now république (!) — and it was beautiful to see all six five of him gliding through that space and those kitchens in full chef’s regalia.
after a hectic night, too, that friend told the camera that he was taking tony to fred 62. i gasped aloud while watching.
baby g (me) loves fred 62 and the neighborhood it’s in. i got goosebumps seeing the purple and green reflection of the los feliz theater on tony’s car. i could live on just that street for months— there’s the diner, the theater, the skylight bookstore, a three-part french bistro and bakery, a vintage clothing store, and a fatburger. it ain’t my beloved san mo, but it sure is something.
had i been tony’s guide on that trip, i would’ve taken him on a more thorough tour of some local institutions, detailed below.
one. snug harbor— this is the kind of easygoing place movie stars in the twenties and thirties would come in and eat at between shots. reminds me so vividly of a studio canteen. buster keaton would’ve eaten here every day. their avocado toast and suzy q fries are very important to me.
two. woon— impeccable decoration, use of space, and food. beautiful, bright, and simple. the colors, the textures! understated, tasteful, top-notch.
three. république — this place veers a little closer to the overcomplicated foodie cooking that scares me, but really, they are wonderful in every way. like all the restaurants on the list the space has a certain magic, but even more so because of its relation to chaplin. they also use light in a very cool way and have common tables, both of which heighten the dining experience pour moi. i think about their shakshouka and vietnamese coffee frequently.
four. noma— this place gets kind of a bad rap, catering as it does to those who care too much about appearances. but that’s hard to avoid in la, where wonderful places like courage bagels are also trendy. noma steps gracefully around this, though, with unbeatable atmosphere and sublime tempura. i’m transported whenever i go there and it’s always a little jarring to step out into the santa monica sun after a meal there.
five. canter’s— every angelino legally must name the place in their prayers every night. they are an institution and have the best pickles. tony’s crew gave them a little nod in his la ep and rightly so.
places i’ve been told to try by my semi-reputable coworkers:
bodega park.
hippo.
de la nonna.
pijja place. (i wanna go so bad. indian mingled with italian? must have.)
masion matho.
yeem’s.
damo.
coffee + alcohol:
everyday coffee staple is primo passo. i hate ginger and tumeric but would go bare kunckles with anyone who doesn’t like their tumeric ginger tea. they also have the best music situation of any eating and drinking establishment i’ve been to (playing whole albums!!!).
special treat is dayglow. each coffee has a cultural tie-in (named after a certain director’s films or some theme like that) and is just the most wonderful little gift to yourself. they are also deserted in the mornings and i love places where nobody is.
favorite bar is bar flores. the interior design and view and back patio are just breath-taking. indelible cantina atmosphere. their micheladas are terrible but nothing else there is.
i also like father’s office. i duck in there sometimes if it’s a beer and hockey kind of night (read: most of october).
anyway, i’m gonna leave mr bourdain with the last words. we miss you, tony.